Guide to Port de la Selva – a quiet corner of the Costa Brava between the sea and the mountains

When you say Costa Brava, you might imagine busy beaches and crowded seaside towns. But there is one place that seems relatively untouched – Port de la Selva, a small fishing village in the Alt Empordà region, where the Pyrenees meet the Mediterranean Sea.

Port de la Selva lies by the sea under the hills, by Jorge Franganillo (CC BY 4.0 License)

So if today you want to experience the most authentic Costa Brava atmosphere possible Before the tourists discovered it, head to Port de la Selva. It's a place where you can slow down, stroll around the harbor and swim in the crystal-clear coves.

My tip for visiting: I personally recommend combining your visit with a trip to Cadaqués (map), from where you can get here by car in less than 25 minutes. 

What else will you find in this guide? Information about Port de la Selva, Tourist and outdoor activities, Beaches, Places to go, Where to live, How to get here

Port de la Selva: A fishing village that has remained true to itself

Unlike many coastal towns that have turned into resorts, El Port de la Selva has retained its original "rural" characterYou will still see fishing boats setting out to sea early in the morning, locals chatting in front of whitewashed houses and children playing by the water at sunset. These are exactly the scenes that you will hardly see in other more famous resorts on the Costa Brava... 

After all, there is nothing to be surprised about – the life of the people here is simple and, frankly, there are not many classic tourist attractions here. But this place attracts even more travelers who prefer peace and quiet to the bustling nightlife or the hustle and bustle of larger cities. If we were to call Cadaqués the artistic soul of the Costa Brava, then Port de la Selva would be its peaceful heart.

Once you go to Port de la Selva, what to do and see here? 

Tourist map of Port de la Selva - click to enlarge

Hiking and outdoor activities

Thanks to its location in the Cap de Creus Natural Park Port de la Selva is one of the best bases for outdoor enthusiasts.

The most popular tourist route leads to the Benedictine monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes from the 10th century, which rises high above the village. You can get there by car or by hiking (about 1,5 to 2 hours) - the views from the top are definitely worth it. On a clear day, you can see the sea, mountains and even the French coast.

Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes

There are many different routes for scenic walks or more challenging trails. The length varies from about 4 to 15 kilometers and many of them can be easily completed even with children. Just don't forget to bring sturdy shoes! You can find all the available routes around Port de la Selva on this useful map. 

Map of hiking trails starting from Port de la Selva

Other outdoor activities you can try include:

• Kayaking and paddleboarding Along the rugged coastline of Cap de Creus there are plenty of small beaches and coves to explore, and there are companies that rent equipment right on the main promenade.
• Boat trips and sailing – at the local port you can buy a ticket for a cruise around the area (with a visit to several caves) or rent a boat on your own and sail wherever you want.
• Diving – has its base about 100 meters from the port local diving center, which offers rental of complete equipment or arranging a trip to some of the places nearby. I haven't tried it myself yet, but they say you'll see the best of the Western Mediterranean... 
• Cycling – if you have a mountain bike with you (or rent one in some of the rental companies) you can go along the coast from Port de la Selva to Llançà or in the opposite direction through the interior to Cadaqués.

The area around Port de la Selva and Cap de Creus offers countless places and opportunities where you can "hide away" and go on "your" adventure without the crowds of tourists.

Beaches in Port de la Selva

If hiking or outdoor activities are not your cup of tea, you can simply lie on the beach in Port de la Selva, enjoy swimming and sunbathing. 

The main city beach in Port de la Selva

The city's beaches stretch along the entire coast (map). The main Platja Gran is wide, sandy and ideal for swimming or paddleboarding (there is usually a good and stable wind). In summer, the water is calm thanks to the natural protection of the bay, which is ideal for families with children or for anyone who just wants to swim with a view of the mountains in the background. The beach is sandy, but sometimes there are various natural deposits... 

And also, as I mentioned, Port de la Selva is primarily a fishing village, not a tourist resort. That's why Don't expect any large facilities, bars or restaurants on the main beach here.The beach is a few steps from the central coastal street, where you can find a supermarket, bar, ice cream parlor or a fruit and vegetable market, but there are no restaurants directly on the beach. In my experience, it is therefore better to stock up somewhere else before going to the local beach. 

My tip: Although there are no restaurants directly on the beach, there are several good places to eat within walking distance. The local establishments offer mostly traditional dishes, with fish and seafood playing a leading role. The closest to the beach is a cozy "folk" tavern The cellar with rice dishes, a few steps further try the more stylish (and slightly more expensive) Cal Mariner.

If you are looking for more privacy, I recommend getting in a car or taking a walk further along the coast.

In the vicinity you will find several smaller bays with often almost empty beaches. It is good Tamariu Beach (pebbly and quiet beach ideal for snorkeling, map) or maybe a bay Taballera cove (it is more natural and remote, accessible more by hiking trail or boat, map). 

What I like about the beaches in Port de la Selva in general is that even in summer the places here are rarely crowded. It's a good reminder that there are still corners of the Costa Brava that haven't been overrun with tourists...

Day trips and nearby places

If you stay in Port de la Selva for several days, you will find many interesting places in the surrounding area:

• Cadaqués – the famous white village where he lived Salvador DalíIt's livelier, but still charming, and only a 25-minute drive away.
• Cap de Creus Lighthouse – a feeling of the end of the world on the edge of a peninsula with beautiful cliffs and a view of the sea.
• Llançà – another fishing town on the coast, slightly larger and with more restaurants.

It's good to have your own car for all trips. Sure, there is public transport, but I wouldn't rely on it too much. 

Excursion routes through the landscape of Cap de Creus

Where to stay and what are the best hotels in Port de la Selva

For a small village, Port de la Selva has a relatively wide range of accommodation options – everything from a seaside campsite to a boutique hotel. It all depends on your budget. Here are some of my tips:

1. Hotel Spa Porto Cristo – stylish historic building near the port, many rooms have sea views or their own wellness area 
2. Hotel Spa Cap de Creus – stylish hotel with a relaxed atmosphere, spacious rooms and a wellness center with sea views
3. Cal Mariner – a smaller family hotel with its own fish restaurant (where you can eat what the local fishermen caught that day)
4. Camping Port de la Vall – a smaller campsite with direct access to the beach in an idyllic setting a little further out of town towards Llançà. If you are not demanding, you have your own tent or camper van, the obvious choice! 

Check out hotels in Port de la Selva on Booking.com

All of these options will allow you to be close to the sea and within walking distance of restaurants and hiking trails.

How to get to Port de la Selva

• By car It takes about 2,5 hours to get from Barcelona to Port de la Selva: take the AP-7 motorway towards Girona and then follow the signs to Llançà or Port de la Selva.
• By train You can go to Figueres or Llançà and then continue by public transport bus or taxi to Port de la Selva.

Tourist information office

For more information on your visit to Port de la Selva, head to the local tourist information office, which is literally just a few steps from the main beach at 3, Llançà. You can also find more information for your stay here. on their website.